Smolensk is one of Russia's most phenomenal old cities. For 500 years it has served as a frontier of the Russian state, withstanding severe attacks and terrible damages. Over time it's preserved its most remarkable memorials from the 12th through 18th centuries. A weekend will be enough to see the most interesting ones.

Without doubt, Smolensk's biggest landmark is its oversized wall. These rampart walls were built in the late 16th century when Russia was ruled by Tsar Boris Godunov. Travelers of the 12th and 13th centuries called it a wonder of the world because its architecture was so sophisticated for the time. Incidentally, the best time to see the wall is at night, when signs of modern civilization, such as cars, do not distract your mind from digressing to bygone epochs.

Go uphill, following the wall from the Smirnov Square and and enjoy the expanding panorama of the city and the Dnieper River.

Another remarkable place in Smolensk is the Assumption Cathedral which still can be seen from distant villages. A masterpiece of Russian baroque, the cathedral was built in 1730. Its main distinguishing feature from the European and Russian churches of that period is its colossal size.

The church features icons, phenomenal in splendor and size, created especially for the cathedral in the early 18th century. The French conqueror Napoleon was so deeply impressed by the beauty of the cathedral that he ordered his soldiers to guard it against looters during the war of 1812.

The Smolensk Mother of God icon in front of the cathedral's main icon set is believed to be the city's saint patron and one of Russia's most revered holy icons. Since ancient times the Russian people believed in its powers and called on it for protection and consolation. A splendid panorama of Smolensk opens from the hilltop where the cathedral is located.

Taking a cab is the best way to reach the splendid Svirskaya church. Built in the 12th century, the monumental and impressive building has remained remarkably unchanged. From there you may return to the Lenin square and visit the Ascension Cathedral on Konyonkova street. The cathedral is currently defunct and serves as an exhibition hall boasting an exceptional collection of icons and frames, some of which are even superior to those demonstrated in the Tretyakov Art Gallery in Moscow.

A charming nouveau-style mansion on Tenishchev street built by Archbishop Malyutin is home to the Smolensk city museum. The museum is open daily, except Mondays and boasts a remarkable collection of ancient icons, wooden church utensils and Russian and Soviet-era paintings, including Stozharov's famous "Spring in the Village." The Smolensk city museum is known and highly regarded by both Russian and foreign art specialists.

There are plenty of cafes and restaurants in Smolensk, but I would recommend you to drop by Bely Shar — a cozy place on Smirnov Square offering starters for 15 rubles to 20 rubles, and meals, including the appetizing Mushroom Ball, for 40 rubles to 60 rubles. Two young divas entertain patrons with Russian folk and pop songs in the evening. To stop for a night, we recommend Hotel Tsentralnaya located beside the Lenin statue (Tel: 3-3604; Fax: 3-3854), where a suite for two is 560 rubles.