Decked out like an ocean-going yacht and named after the famous tea clipper, Cutty Sark harbors no illusions about being anything other than a fish restaurant. "Frigate," I thought, and the walls of the building are certainly awash with pictures of schooners and other boat-shaped vessels. Portholes acting as windows is another bow to the maritime theme, and naval paraphernalia in the shape of globes and navigators' wheels further add to the prevailing idea, backed up by heavy, but comfortable, wooden furniture and shiny brass fittings. This pleasant, conservative atmosphere gives Cutty Sark a "middle of the shipping lane" feel.

The background music is more "I Am Sailing" than "Friggin' In The Riggin'" and the restaurant certainly achieves the respectability it is aiming at - a place where landlubbers can discuss the merits of the sole without feeling in the least self-conscious. Unsurprisingly, the mainstay of the menu is a veritable school of river and sea fish, with an additional armada of seafood - including Oberon oysters and paella. However, there are a few meat dishes on board, and Cutty Sark also, somewhat bizarrely, prepares fondue.

Steering clear of the extensive wine list to adhere to the Russian "beer with fish" tradition, I started sinking unfiltered Edelweiss ($6), while the wife drank Fosters ($5). These went down well with the complimentary salmon pate and garlic-herb butter, which we spread lavishly on the freshly served bread. Unwilling to shell out $43 on one of the lobsters in the aquarium being turned into a Thermidor, I settled instead for a lobster cream soup ($9), which had large bits of meat swimming in its delicious, foamy base. Sick thoughts of turning up the heat on the lobster tank to create liters of this delightful soup disappeared over the horizon when I spotted the opportunity to intercept half of the spouse's shrimp Caesar salad ($8). This was an excellent, good-sized mixture, which starred the daddy of king prawns.

For the main course, I opted for a fillet of rainbow trout ($17). All of the fish is apparently freshly shipped into Cutty Sark from foreign waters, and mine was particularly good - wonderfully presented in a mussel sauce with a small side serving of fresh asparagus, new potatoes and two tasty mussels. My beautiful cabin mate had a rich fettuccine with seafood ($14), which was also delicious and very filling. While my favorite figurehead skipped dessert, I stowed away a Panna Cotta with passion fruit ($7) for added ballast. The sharp fruit jelly contrasted well with the creamy mousse, and proved a refreshing companion to my Cutty Sark coffee ($6), whose chocolate topping masked enough whiskey to leave me fairly rudderless. At the end of the evening I was pleased to tack my way out of Cutty Sark feeling a little green around the gills. However, this is no reflection on the restaurant. Cutty Sark offers high quality catches in surroundings that are ship shape. Well worth a voyage - if fish is your dish.